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| Cosmetics for Special Populations and for Use as Compounding Vehicles |
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Part 8: Example Cosmetic Formulas and Counseling Tips
We are continuing our series on "Compounding Cosmetics for Special Populations and for Use as Compounding Vehicles." In this and next week's issues, we will look at more example cosmetic formulations, their ingredients, and their purpose in the formulations.
Counseling on Cosmetics
Suggestions for counseling patients on cosmetics are as follows:
- Fragrances are the most common cause of allergic and irritant reactions to cosmetics.
- Preservatives are the second most common cause of allergic and irritant reactions to cosmetics.
- The term "hypoallergenic" can mean almost anything; there are no regulatory standards for use of the term.
- The labels "dermatologist tested," "sensitivity tested," "allergy tested," and "nonirritating" carry no guarantee that the product will not cause reactions.
- Like "hypoallergenic," the term "natural" can mean anything; there are no standards for its use. (If you've had poison ivy, you know that "natural" does not mean "hypoallergenic.")
- Never share cosmetics, not even with your best friend or a family member.
- Shared-use cosmetics (e.g., testers found at department store cosmetic counters) are more likely to become contaminated than the same products in an individual's home.
- At home, usually the preservatives have time to destroy bacteria that are inevitably introduced after each use; this is not the case with testers in department stores.
- Keep makeup containers tightly closed except when in use.
- Keep makeup out of sunlight, which can cause it to degrade.
- Do not use eye cosmetics if you have an eye infection, and throw away all products you were using when you first discovered the infection.
- Never add any liquid to a product to bring it back to its original consistency. Adding water or, even worse, saliva, could introduce bacteria that could easily grow out of control.
- Throw away makeup if the color changes or an odor develops.
- Keep containers tightly closed when not in use.
The basic cosmetic formulations provided within this newsletter can be easily modified for different patient situations.
Note: CompoundingToday.com contains over 300 cosmetic formulas in 60 different categories available online to subscribers.
Loyd V. Allen, Jr., PhD, RPh
Editor-in-Chief
International Journal of Pharmaceutical Compounding
Remington: The Science and Practice of Pharmacy Twenty-second edition
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Eye Formulations (For Educational Purposes)
 Anhydrous Mascara Basic Formulation
| Solvent(s) | 40%–60% |
| Waxes | 10%–20% |
| Resin(s) | 3%–10% |
| Gellant | 3%–7% |
| Colorant(s) | 5%–15% |
| Filler(s) | 2%–10% |
| Polar additive | qs |
- Calculate the required quantity of each ingredient for the total amount to be prepared.
- Weigh and/or measure each ingredient accurately.
- Heat the waxes, solvents, and resins in a jacketed kettle using low heat until uniform and clear.
- Add, slowly, the colorants under high shear, and mill until a uniform dispersion is obtained.
- Add the gellant under high shear and mill until uniform.
- Activate the gellant with a polar additive (e.g., propylene carbonate).
- Add fillers under high shear and mill until uniform.
- Cool the mixture to desired temperature.
- Package and label the product.
Cream Eye Shadow Basic Formulation
| Solvents | 35%–55% |
| Gellant | 1.5%–3.5% |
| Waxes | 7%–12% |
| Emollients | 3%–8% |
| Colorants/pearls | 5%–20% |
| Fillers | 10%–20% |
| Functional fillers | 5%–15% |
| Polar additive | qs |
- Calculate the required quantity of each ingredient for the total amount to be prepared.
- Weigh and/or measure each ingredient accurately.
- Heat the waxes, solvents, and emollients in a jacketed kettle using low heat until uniform and clear.
- Add, slowly, the colorants/pearls under high shear and mill until a uniform dispersion is obtained.
- Add the gallant under high shear and mill until uniform.
- Activate the gellant with a polar additive (e.g., propylene carbonate).
- Add the fillers and the functional fillers under high shear and mill until uniform.
- Cool the mixture to the desired temperature.
- Package and label the product.
Eyeliner Basic Formulation
| Purified water | 50%–70% |
| Gellant | 0.5%–1.5% |
| Wetting agent(s) | 1%–3% |
| Polyol | 4%–8% |
| Colorants | 10%–20% |
| Alcohol | 5%–10% |
| Film former | 3%–8% |
- Calculate the required quantity of each ingredient for the total amount to be prepared.
- Weigh and/or measure each ingredient accurately.
- Mix the gellant with the polyol and add to a heated water phase containing the wetting agent.
- Disperse with a high shear until uniform.
- Add colorants and disperse until uniform.
- Cool the mixture and add the alcohol and the film former with low shear.
- Package and label the product.
References for this series on Cosmetics.
- Butler H. Historical background. In: Butler H, ed. Poucher's Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps. 9th ed. London, UK: Chapman & Hall; 1993: 639-692.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. FDA authority over cosmetics. [FDA Website.] August 3, 2013. Available at: www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/GuidanceRegulation/LawsRegulations/ucm074162.htm. Accessed September 17, 2019.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is it a cosmetic, a drug, or both? (or is it soap?). [FDA Website.] Available at: www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/GuidanceRegulation/LawsRegulations/ucm074201.htm. Accessed September 17, 2019.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. How to Report a Cosmetic Related Complaint. [FDA Website.] November 3, 2017. Available at: www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-compliance-enforcement/how-report-cosmetic-related-complaint. Accessed September 17, 2019.
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New Dosage Form Coming
Microneedle Arrays (MNAs), a new generation of transformative skin-mediated delivery systems, will soon be introduced as a new pharmaceutical dosage form,
Read about Microneedle Arrays and how to become involved with them in the upcoming issues of the International Journal of Pharmaceutical Compounding.
If not a current subscriber, subscribe online now to IJPC to see where compounding has new potential and opportunities.
Call Deb at 800-757-4572 ext 1, or email at
IJPC-Subscriptions@IJPC.com
In the next three issues of IJPC, microneedle arrays will be discussed along with their potential use in compounding.
| Sep/Oct 2022 | | Compounding with Microneedle Arrays, Part 1: Introduction and Overview |
| Nov/Dec 2022 | | Compounding with Microneedle Arrays, Part 2: Preparation, Compounding, and Recent Studies |
| Jan/Feb 2023 | | Compounding with Microneedle Arrays, Part 3: Preparation of Microneedle Array Blanks and Literature Examples |
NOTE: A "Microneedle and Transdermal Delivery Forum" is scheduled to be held in Philadelphia on Sept. 13-14, 2022 with internationally known speakers working in this area.
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Did You Know (On Time) ...
...the following?
"All my possessions for a moment of time." (Queen Elizabeth I's last words)
"Time is the only thing we all possess equally." (Anon)
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Thought of the Week (On Time)
"He that is good will become better, and he that is bad will as certainly become worse; for vice, virtue, and time are three things that never stand still." (Colton)
"Laziness grows on people; it begins in cobwebs and ends in iron chains. The more business a man has to do, the more he is able to accomplish, for he learns to economize his time." (Sir M. Hale)
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Spread the word ...
... forward this newsletter to someone that needs it.
Tell them they can get their own free copy of the weekly Compounding Today newsletter at
https://CompoundingToday.com/Newsletter/
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From Out of the Past
Fire! Fire!
Keep cool!
Be brave!
Just grab
Your pants and
Burma-Shave
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