We are continuing our series on "Compounding Cosmetics for Special populations and for Use as Compounding Vehicles." There are many opportunities available, including:

• Compounding cosmetics for ingredient-sensitive patients,
• Compounding special vehicles to meet patient-specific needs, and
• Compounding cosmeceuticals, as appropriate.

This week, we will look at quality-control considerations.

Quality Control

Many of the same quality-control procedures used for regular pharmaceutical dosage forms can be used in the preparation of cosmetics. Preparation of extra product that can be placed in storage for periodic observation over its expected use or life is useful; if adverse changes occur, a patient could be contacted, and the remaining product recalled.

Incorporation of Active Ingredients

The incorporation of any active ingredient into a cosmetic used as a vehicle must follow all the considerations of any compounded pharmaceutical because the cosmetic is being converted to a drug preparation. Chemical and physical characteristics must be considered as well as stability. Chemical properties to consider include the structure, form, and reactivity of the active drug in the presence of the vehicle. Physical properties to consider include particle size, crystalline structure, melting point, and solubility. The active drug must be physically and chemically compatible with the cosmetic vehicle.

Ointments/Creams/Gels

Quality-control assessment can include theoretical weight compared to actual weight, pH, specific gravity, active drug assay, color, clarity, texture-surface, texture-spatula spread, appearance, feel, rheological properties, physical observations, and preservative effectiveness tests for creams and gels.

Topical Liquids

Quality-control assessment can include weight/volume, pH, specific gravity, active drug assay, color, clarity, globule-size range, rheological properties/pourability, physical observation, physical stability (discoloration, foreign materials, gas formation, mold growth), and preservative effectiveness test.

Sticks

Quality-control assessment can include weight, specific gravity, active drug assay, color, clarity, texture of surface, appearance, feel, melting test, dissolution test, physical observation, and physical stability.

References

Allen LV Jr. Summary of quality-control testing for sterile and nonsterile compounded preparations, part 1: Physical and chemical testing. IJPC. 2019; 23(3): 211-216.

Allen LV Jr. Summary of quality-control testing for sterile and nonsterile compounded preparations, part 2: Microbiological testing. IJPC. 2019; 23(4): 299-303.

Next week, "Storage and Labeling of Compounded Cosmetics and Special Ingredients."

Loyd V. Allen, Jr., PhD, RPh
Editor-in-Chief
International Journal of Pharmaceutical Compounding
Remington: The Science and Practice of Pharmacy Twenty-second edition

Did You Know ...

...that Will Rogers said the following?

"All I can say about the United States Senate is that it opens with a prayer and closes with an investigation."

"If you want to be successful, it's just this simple:

Know what you are doing,
Love what you are doing, and
Believe in what you are doing."

Thought of the Week (On Hollywood)

"In Hollywood, the woods are full of people that learned to write but evidently can't read. If they could read their stuff, they'd stop writing it!" (Will Rogers)