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Part 2: The Historical Use of Cosmetics
We are continuing our series on "Cosmetics for Special Populations and for Use as Compounding Vehicles." As many compounding pharmacists are already involved in this area, there are many opportunities available as follows:
- Compounding cosmetics for patients with sensitivities,
- Compounding special vehicles to meet patient-specific needs, and
- Compounding cosmeceuticals, as appropriate.
Pharmacists have been associated with cosmetics throughout history. Cosmetics have traditionally been used for beautifying, perfuming, cleansing, and ritual purposes. The 20th century brought progress in the diversification of these products and their functions, as well as in safety and protection for the consumer. Pharmacists' associations with cosmetics had waned in recent years, but now pharmacists are receiving more requests to prepare special cosmetics for two reasons: 1) to address allergies or sensitivities to preservatives, dyes, and fragrances and 2) to incorporate active ingredients into commercially available cosmetics.
Historical Use
The science of cosmetic preparations dates back at least to the beginning of recorded history. In the 15th to 17th centuries, literature on cosmetics consisted of "books of secrets" that were devoted not only to bodily embellishment but also to medicine, care of the home, and other topics. Over the years, formulas for cosmetics were recorded in published books, but actual cosmetic compendia were not published in English until the 1940s.
The goals of cosmetics have always been essentially the same: enhance personal appeal through decoration of the body, camouflage flaws in the integument, and alter or improve on nature. Vases of alabaster and obsidian for cosmetics discovered by Flinders Petrie in 1949 illustrate that the ancient Egyptians were well versed in the use of eye and face paints, body oils, and ointments. Theophrastus (363-278 BC), a student of Aristotle, demonstrated considerable knowledge of the compounding of perfumes, and the Roman physician Galen of Pergamon (130-200 AD) is said to have innovated cold cream.
In the earliest times, cosmetics were associated with religious practices. The ancient Egyptians, Assyrians, Chaldeans, Babylonians, and others anointed both the living and the dead with aromatic incense, oils, and ointments. Early in the development of cosmetics, the Jews carried these uses to unprecedented heights. In Egypt, many of the high priests were recognized as medical practitioners. Products for care of the body were closely associated with medicine for almost 5000 years, and the history of cosmetics can be traced through the history of medicine and pharmacy. Cosmetics were used in activities related to bathing and in the arts of makeup and hairdressing, hair dyeing and waving, and embalming. The writings of Dioscorides and Zosimos explain many of the formulations used.
Hippocrates advanced the study of dermatology and advocated correct diet, exercise, sunlight, special baths, and massage as aids to good health and beauty. Cornelius Celsus, Pliny the Elder, Dioscorides, and Galen all contributed to the medical and cosmetic literature of their days. Cosmetics (when not made in the home) usually were prepared by pharmacists. Cosmetics as a specialty began separating from medicine during the period 1200-1500. Thereafter, cosmetics apparently branched into 1) products used for routine beautification of the skin and 2) those used for the correction of cosmetic disorders of the skin, hair, nails, and teeth (drawing on dermatology, pharmacology, dentistry, ophthalmology, dietetics, and other accepted medical arts).
The first pharmacopeia of London, published in 1618, showed that pharmacists had the necessary equipment and skill to make and sell cosmetic products, but the increasingly stringent regulations governing their work kept most of them occupied exclusively with the compounding of medications. During the 17th and 18th centuries, cosmetic products of all kinds were still made principally in the home, although the number of shops that sold such items increased steadily. Raw materials were purchased from pharmacists and "druggists" (a new term of German origin), but very few professional apothecaries sold anything other than assorted essences and "perfumed waters."
Sticks made from a base of oil and wax came into limited use before World War I as lipsticks, usually colored with carmine. These lipsticks simply applied a colored layer to the lips that, when removed, left the lips their natural color. Most dyes were water insoluble, but the incorporation of a water-soluble dye was found to actually dye the lips if they were premoistened before application of the lipstick. This was an early approach to the use of sticks containing a material that interacted with the skin. Some of these water-soluble dyes would develop an intense red color as the pH was lowered.
Today's cosmetics have resulted from cosmetic scientists introducing and improving products for various applications. Some cosmetic products, including gels, oils, ointments, pastes, powders, solutions, sticks, and suspensions, are still widely used in the pharmaceutical sciences.
Most recently, active cosmetics have been developed. In addition to improving the user's appearance or odor, they are intended to benefit their target (e.g., the skin, hair, mucous membranes, or teeth). Manufacturers are making a multitude of claims about their products' actions on the body, and the cosmetic market has greatly expanded. Many current cosmetic products focus on hydrating the skin, reducing or slowing the signs of aging skin, or protecting the skin against the usual daily environmental assaults.
The recent changes in cosmetic products and the constraints imposed on the manufacturers have given cosmetology greater credibility with scientists, physicians, and consumers. Cosmetology is now a science that combines various areas of expertise, including bioengineering, biology, chemistry, dermatology, microbiology, physics, statistics, and toxicology.
Loyd V. Allen, Jr., PhD, RPh
Editor-in-Chief
International Journal of Pharmaceutical Compounding
Remington: The Science and Practice of Pharmacy Twenty-second edition
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